Mount Stephen seen from Mount Burgess
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Mount Stephen Mount Stephen is undoubtedly the highlight of my scrambles this year. Towering over Field, BC, it requires climbing nearly two kilometers up! Because of the technical nature of the climb and elevation, it requires good conditions. August provides the best opportunity to complete the summit. Snow and bad weather often cause parties to turn around before reaching the top. We tried it last year, on the same day – August 25 – but after climbing more than 1700 m, we had to abort because snow and ice. A week later, after hot weather miraculously melted all the snow and ice, another party that I know, attempted the ascent but turned back because of a storm that blew in suddenly. I heard of two other failed attempts last year. But on our second attempt the conditions were excellent. Mild weather had melted the ice and snow leaving the ascent route dry. The temperatures were well above normal. It was so calm and mild, that even on the summit we were comfortable in shorts and T-shirts. After we began our descent, however, the weather turned briefly as a thunderstorm moved through. Fortunately little rain fell but I was more concerned with the lightning strikes that were occurring. (A few weeks earlier, a fossil hunter in this area was struck and killed by lightning). On this trip, my GPS receiver which I keep high on my shoulder for optimum reception, began to buzz. I hastened my descent until my GPS became quiet. An hour later, I heard a crash and turned around to see a cloud of smoke coming from a rock face several hundred metres away and watched as rocks came down. I assume it was a lightning strike. Soon after that, the skies cleared and the sun came out. |
Mount Stephen seen from
Mount Burgess
Fossils
seen from the trail
On the shoulder: Ahead are
gullies that take you to the scree slope.
Trudging up talus to the summit
block. The large rocks were loose so we
wore helmets. Good thing too. A rock
turned under my foot and I spun
upside-down
and landed on my head. My helmet saved me from any injury.
Mouse over to see the grade. (mouse over for a side view)
Mount Dennis
After the talus, the terrain is more interesting
Although it was dry on this trip, a year ago near this point,
we were forced to
turn back (mouse over).
Looking up the gully full of ice
Going up along
the gully: at the top, cross over and climb up the rock face
Ascending
some ledges
Starting up the face to the ridge after crossing above the gully
We climbed up cracks and
ledges to the top of a ridge.
An exciting
climb that's easier than
it
looks.
The summit hut can be seen above us.
After the crux we hiked below the ridge crest to the summit.
Impressive
basin on the south side
Gert,
Dinah, Wayne and I relax on the summit. Gert brought rope and an
ice axe
but never used them.
Coming down from the ridge
At the top was a white
building. I climbed on top of it to take this panorama but I digitally removed
pipes, an antenna and a helicopter landing pad to give it a pristine look.
82 N/8 Lake Louise
